224 West Gold: How Downtown’s oldest building flew under the radar for 140 years

In January 1886, a man named Augustus Koch arrived in Albuquerque.1 Koch (1840-1899) was an itinerant lithographer who traveled from town to town producing "bird's eye view" maps of the places he visited. It seems like a rather quaint occupation today, but Koch's services were clearly in high demand as he completed over 100 of these illustrations during his career.2 His drawing of Albuquerque captured a community in the midst of a rapid transition. Six years earlier, the arrival of the railroad had sparked massive development, creating what was essentially an entirely new town on the outskirts of the existing settlement. Albuquerque was on its way from sleepy agricultural village to booming commercial center.

Koch's map is fascinating because of both the incredible level of detail and the fact that most of what he drew is not there anymore. Not everything, true—you might be able to pick out some surviving houses here and there, or some of the buildings in Old Town. But looking at the most densely built up part of the city, the area that is now Downtown, you would be hard pressed to find anything recognizable at all. This isn't especially surprising considering how the city developed. After the arrival of the railroad, businessmen rushed to put up shoddy frame or adobe buildings as quickly as possible. As finances allowed, these were mostly replaced by more substantial brick and stone buildings by the 1920s. Finally, the urban renewal movement came along in the 1960s and 70s and wiped out pretty much everything that was left. So it is not surprising that nothing on the Koch map looks familiar. In fact, it would be a lot more surprising if somehow, despite the odds, any of the buildings on the map had survived to the present.

So here's the surprise: one did. In all of Downtown, that is, between Marble, Sixth, Coal, and the railroad tracks, there is exactly one building still standing from Koch's map.3 You would be forgiven for missing it; it is the kind of small, nondescript building people walk past every day without a second glance. It doesn't have a name, and the few times it was actually caught on film seem to have mostly been on the periphery of other, ostensibly more interesting subjects. But none of those have survived. This one did.

Detail of Downtown from "Bird's Eye View of Albuquerque" by Augustus Koch, 1886. Via California Digital Library, full sheet available.

Approximately the same area as seen on Google Earth, 2018.

So what is this mystery building? Since it never really had a name, I'll call it by its original address, 224 Gold (though it has actually been 226-228 Gold since about 1940). Officially, it occupies block 23, lot 12 of the Albuquerque Original Townsite, or in layman's terms, the southeast corner of Third and Gold. It's 25 feet wide, 142 feet long, one story high, and made of adobe. On Koch's map it faces away from us, revealing only a blank wall that now abuts a neighboring building. The building's early history is similarly inscrutable—I wasn't able to pin down exactly when it was built, or by whom—but I will share what I was able to uncover.

Detail of Koch's map showing the area around Third and Gold. The red arrow shows the property at 224 Gold; the building across the street labeled "28" is the Girard House hotel. Via California Digital Library, full sheet available.

The building probably dates from the very earliest days of New Town (around 1880 or 1881). Early directories and articles mention a saloon operated by Frank Reese and Max Loebner at the corner of Third and Gold, which I think is the same building.4 In 1882, it was reported that "Reese & Loebner are erecting an adobe addition to their building on the corner of Gold avenue and Third street which will cost $1,500."5 By 1883, the building was listed for sale: "I have a property corner of Third street and Gold avenue, known as the Reese & Loebner property, 25x142 feet, with buildings worth $5,000, and will sell whole for $7,500 cash…".6 Although it was never mentioned which corner the saloon was located on, this ad is a valuable clue because 224 Gold was the only adobe building near Third and Gold that was on a standard 25x142-foot lot. Therefore it seems most likely that this was the saloon.

Looking west on Gold Avenue from Second Street, c. 1891. The Whiting Building is on the left and the large building in the background is the San Felipe Hotel on Fifth Street. Via New Mexico Digital Collections.

Looking east on Gold, 1891. This photo was probably taken from the top of the Commercial Club building, which was under construction at the time. Via New Mexico Digital Collections.

In 1885, a short notice ran in the Evening Democrat alerting the public that "Mrs. Garden will open her new dining parlors, corner of Gold avenue and Third street, on Wednesday, June 10th, when she will be happy to greet her old friends and patrons, and delighted to make the acquaintance of new ones."7 The Mrs. Garden in question was Kate M. Garden (c. 1833-1922),8 and the building she occupied was definitely 224 Gold because she continued to own it until shortly before her death in 1922. This also makes it seem likely that it was the same property as Reese and Loebner's, since a former saloon would have been easy to adapt as a restaurant.

Like other restaurateurs of the time, Garden mainly served travelers and lodgers who didn't have their own kitchens, as eating out was not common for most people. She also made some space for lodgers of her own, turning the two rooms behind the restaurant into bedrooms.9 The Morning Democrat reviewed her establishment and reported, "A superb bill of fare was spread before the guests Sunday. The cooking is excellent the edibles the best in the market and the service is simply appetizing."10 Despite this, she seems to have run into trouble relatively quickly. In 1887, due to unknown circumstances, she was forced to auction the entire contents of the building, which gives an idea of what the business looked like at the time: "two very nice cherry bed room sets, marble top extension tables, center tables, rocking chairs, ice boxes, a No. 8 cook stove, with utensils new, several good Brussels and ingrain carpets, and lots of other useful articles for housekeeping."11

Fortunately, she was able to reopen the business in 1888 and it was reported shortly thereafter that the restaurant "has regained all its old-time popularity, and is now recognized as the best place in town to get a good meal."12,13 The newspapers continued to rave, with the Journal writing, "Mrs. Garden's lovely, cool dining room, with 'Jim' as mayor domo, is so exquisitely sweet and clean these days that one could, if one had to, eat off the floor. Mrs. Garden's people are now going through the dictionary on puddings, and are being inducted into culinary mysteries and 'goodies' that are most delightful."14 But this second iteration closed at some point too, as Garden was reported to be "formerly in the restaurant business" in 1896.15

An ad for Mrs. Garden’s establishment, 1889. Albuquerque Journal via Newspapers.com.

The building at 224 Gold (far left) on the 1891 Sanborn map, colored brown to indicate adobe construction and labeled as a restaurant. Via Wikimedia Commons, full sheet available.

Garden opened a new boarding house a couple of blocks away in 1898.16 That year's Sanborn map shows 224 Gold being used as a printing office, which was just one of the dozens of different short-lived businesses that have operated there over the years—everything from a candy factory to a left-wing newspaper to a poultry products association to theater company headquarters. Very few of them seem to have lasted more than a few years. A photo from about 1911 shows the building sporting a sign for C. Fisher & Co., a plumbing company,17 while the neighboring lot was home to Bryant's Quick Parcel Delivery, one of the city's first black-owned businesses. This photo gives the best glimpse of the building's early appearance, which included a Victorian-style bracketed cornice and big plate-glass display windows.

The staff and vehicles of Bryant’s Quick Parcel Delivery, c. 1911. The building at 224 Gold is partially visible on the right. Via New Mexico Digital Collections.

By the time of the 1919 Sanborn map, the building was evidently in rough shape, as several of the storefronts were vacant and the rear addition was marked "dilapidated". In March, 1922, Garden sold it to William J. Leverett,18 a local real estate agent who would become better known as one of the developers of the Monte Vista subdivision.19 Just a month later, she was visiting a friend at St. Joseph Hospital when she tripped and broke her hip. Even though she had the advantage of already being at the hospital, she never recovered and died six weeks later.20

When Leverett took over the building, its days seemed to be numbered. The Journal reported that "Mr. Leverett plans to tear down the old building and erect a modern two-story brick structure in about six months."18 (Remember how I said a lot of the original downtown buildings were being replaced around this time?) As it turned out, though, he was able to profit massively from his purchase without doing any work at all. Just two months later, he sold the property to a lawyer named Pearce Rodey for $20,000, double the amount he had paid in the first place.21 I'm not sure whether it was Rodey or Mrs. Garden who got ripped off the most, but either way this one sale is probably the reason the building is still standing today.

Rodey wasn't going to tear down the building, but he couldn't just let it sit either. It wasn't in great shape and the Victorian architecture was hopelessly out of fashion—not at all the kind of image a 20th-century real estate man wanted to project. So he built a new concrete block building next door at 222 Gold and then remodeled the old building to match, stripping away the Victorian trim to give a kind of neo-Territorial look with brick coping around the parapet.22 The 1924 Sanborn map also shows that the "dilapidated" rear of the building was demolished during this project.

224 Gold as shown on the Sanborn maps from 1919 (left), 1924 (center), and 1931 (right), showing the modifications the building underwent during this period. Via Digital Sanborn Maps (1919), (1924), (1931), full sheet available.

In 1925 the property was sold again, this time to S. E. Beahm, for $30,000.23 The following year, Beahm undertook the last major change to the building, constructing a new three-room addition which extended the footprint all the way back to the alley.24 The layout has remained basically the same ever since, with five small commercial spaces facing Third Street behind the main Gold Avenue storefront. The Beahm family apparently still owned the property into the 1960s or 70s, when most of Downtown's older buildings were being razed in the name of urban renewal. In 1963 alone, more than 60 downtown buildings were condemned and demolished.25 An ad from that year placed by one of the downtown business associations commended the work: "Dozens of half-century-old buildings have been leveled, bringing into sight some of the city's newer structures. Stand on almost any downtown streetcorner and you can catch glimpses of the new Albuquerque emerging like a flower garden after it has been weeded."26 In reality, what was emerging was a wasteland of empty lots that has only been partly repaired 50 years later.

The 200 block of Gold (center) and surrounding area in 1959 (top) and 1999 (bottom).

One by one, the buildings around Third and Gold came down. The Knights of Pythias building on the northeast corner was demolished to make way for an uninspiring office building;27 five buildings on the southwest corner were cleared to build a parking lot and drive-through ATM for the Bank of New Mexico.28 The east end of the 200 block, including the turreted Whiting Building, became a parking lot as well.29 But, seemingly at random, the seven small buildings at 212-224 Gold were spared. At the time there was nothing particularly notable about these buildings; there were others like them on pretty much any block in the area. But as the demolitions continued, they somehow became one of the only scraps of urban fabric in the oldest part of Downtown to survive. (Perhaps it was their very inconspicuousness that saved them.) Today, 224 Gold and the Hope Building two doors down are the two oldest buildings remaining in the city center.3

224 Gold (at right) in 2012. Author's photo.

Since the 1970s, urban renewal has been completely disavowed, and historic preservation has become more of a priority for city leadership. But old buildings like 224 Gold still face threats from irresponsible property owners and acts of nature. The building had a close call in 2013 when a huge fire broke out in the National Institute of Flamenco studio at 212 Gold, completely destroying the two buildings at the end of the block. Firefighters reported that only a firewall between 214 and 216 Gold prevented the entire block from burning.30 But the firewall did its job, and Downtown's oldest building escaped yet again.

212-214 Gold destroyed by fire, 2013. Albuquerque Journal via Newspapers.com.

So that pretty much brings us to the present. As of this writing, the building houses a French restaurant called Le Troquet, which I'm sure would please Mrs. Garden. In fact, it is the third French restaurant in a row to occupy the corner space that a Journal reviewer wrote "feels uniquely designed for this purpose".31 The restaurant's website describes it as "a delightful bistro that could easily be overlooked by passersby because of its humble outer appearance"32—just as true today as ever. This building has been overlooked by passersby for almost 140 years. It's about time it finally starts getting its due.

Sources

1. [Mr. Augustus Koch has been in the city.] Albuquerque Evening Democrat, February 4, 1886. Via Newspapers.com.

2. "Antique maps by Augustus Koch." Barry Lawrence Ruderman Antique Maps Inc.


3. "National Register of Historic Places Inventory-Nomination Form: Hope Building." National Park Service, August 29, 1980.

4. Colorado, New Mexico, Utah, Nevada, Wyoming and Arizona Gazetteer and Business Directory. Chicago: R. L. Polk & Co. and A. C. Danser, 1884. p. 306.

5. "Immense Improvements: What Has Been Done in Albuquerque During the Past Six Months." Albuquerque Journal, July 22, 1882. Via Newspapers.com.

6. "'When a man goes where Indian corn won't grow...'" (advertisement). Albuquerque Journal, October 2, 1883. Via Newspapers.com.

7. [Mrs. Garden will open her new dining parlors.] Albuquerque Evening Democrat, June 8, 1885. Via Newspapers.com.

8. "Kate Mary Garden (born Draper)." Via MyHeritage Family Trees.

9. [Mrs. Garden has a nicely furnished room for rent.] Albuquerque Morning Democrat, May 7, 1886. Via Newspapers.com.

10. [Mrs. Garden's boarding parlor has been full.] Albuquerque Morning Democrat, July 28, 1886. Via Newspapers.com.

11. "Auction Sale" (advertisement). Albuquerque Journal, April 6, 1887. Via Newspapers.com.

12. [Mrs. Garden has opened a first-class restaurant.] Albuquerque Journal, August 16, 1888. Via Newspapers.com.

13. [Mrs. Garden's restaurant.] Albuquerque Journal, September 11, 1888. Via Newspapers.com.

14. [Mrs. Garden's lovely, cool dining room.] Albuquerque Journal, April 17, 1889. Via Newspapers.com.

15. [Mrs. K. M. Garden.] Las Vegas Daily Optic, October 3, 1896. Via Newspapers.com.

16. [Mrs. Scott's property.] Albuquerque Journal, March 5, 1898. Via Newspapers.com.

17. "That old cesspool is full again" (advertisement). Albuquerque Journal, June 22, 1911. Via Newspapers.com.

18. "Leverett Buys Old Building on Third." Albuquerque Journal, March 28, 1922. Via Newspapers.com.

19. "National Register of Historic Places Inventory-Nomination Form: William J. Leverett House." National Park Service, February 13, 1986.

20. "Mrs. Garden Was a Pioneer Resident of the Duke City." Albuquerque Journal, June 14, 1922. Via Newspapers.com.

21. "Pearce Rodey Buys W. J. Leverett Block." Albuquerque Journal, May 30, 1922. Via Newspapers.com.

22. "Rodey Building, at Third and Gold, Is Being Re-Finished." Albuquerque Journal, June 20, 1922. Via Newspapers.com.

23. "$30,000 Real Estate Deal at Third and Gold." Albuquerque Journal, February 22, 1925. Via Newspapers.com.

24. "Enlarging Building at Third and Gold for Newspaper Office." Albuquerque Journal, October 18, 1926. Via Newspapers.com.

25. McAlpin, Dick. "Extensive Rehabilitation Progress Is Chalked Up." Albuquerque Journal, December 23, 1963. Via Newspapers.com.

26. "Downtown Booms Ahead" (advertisement). Albuquerque Journal, May 3, 1963. Via Newspapers.com.

27. Paskind, Martin. "Office Planned Here." Albuquerque Journal, November 24, 1963. Via Newspapers.com.

28. "Bank of New Mexico Finishing 'Face-Lift'." Albuquerque Journal, May 18, 1969. Via Newspapers.com.

29. "Whiting Building At Second, Gold To Come Down." Albuquerque Journal, October 31, 1962. Via Newspapers.com.

30. Lohmann, Patrick. "Fire in heart of ABQ: Downtown blaze destroys flamenco studio, conservatory." Albuquerque Journal, December 19, 2013. Via Newspapers.com.

31. Niederman, Sharon. "Close to heaven: At Le Troquet, sublime dishes transport diners right to Paris." Albuquerque Journal, April 22, 2016. Via Newspapers.com.

32. Le Troquet: A Hidden Treasure. Abqfrenchrestaurant.com.

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